Hey Everyone, I’m busy getting ready for Stitches United next weekend. I’m super excited about the classes I’m teaching. Today I finished the kits for my Yoga Pants Class. …I LOVE the performance knit fabric I’m using for fit samples and the kits. It’s a double brushed polyester that’s super soft. I made all the sizes up so students can try them on before cutting out their yoga pants. It’s also really easy to sew on the sewing machine… So if you don’t own a serger and you want to try sewing with knits… this fabric a perfect beginner fabric for pull overs and pants.
Today I want to share my stitch quality experience with you. I always stitch a sample before I start constructing garments. Usually I’ll cut a 6-8″ rectangles of the fabric I’m working with and fine-tune my settings before I get going. I did this today, the 4-Thead Stitch looked perfect with a differential feed setting of 1.3. So I started making the samples. After making a few pairs, I inspected my work… and I realized that the raw edges of the fabric was curling back down on itself under the looper threads. I tried increasing the DF setting… This made it worse. So, I set it to N or Neutral… Meaning the front feed dogs are going the same rate of speed as the back feed dogs. The stitch was perfect!
So this story has two morals… First, a short sample may not tell you the whole story… and Second, sometimes the DF setting for a stretchy fabric may be N or even a setting below that!