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Quick Tip Tuesday l How to Smooth the Wrinkles Behind the Leg

…When you’re fitting a jean or snug pant pattern.  Hey Everyone, it’s Quick Tip Tuesday…and I’m still trying to get use to the time change.  Is it me, or does it get  harder to “spring forward” as you get older???   …I think so 🙂

Anyway, I’m excited about today’s quick tip because I’m hoping it will help lots of ladies get a better fit when they are working on their jean patterns.  There are a few ways to get rid of excess vertical length along the back leg…  This particular method has been really successful in my hands-on fitting workshops.  So, when Kate sent me a picture of her butt, with permission show everyone, I decided that it would be a perfect quick tip!!

Basically, you pin out the excess length in the back by creating a diagonal pleat from side seam to the inseam.  The amount you pin out is the amount you need to get rid of.   I’ll start by showing you how to pin out the excess… Then I’ll show you how to transfer this adjustment to your back leg pattern piece.   Take a look at the video tutorial and let me know what you think!


4 thoughts on “Quick Tip Tuesday l How to Smooth the Wrinkles Behind the Leg

  1. Hi, I really enjoyed this video. I’ve never seen this adjustment explained so clearly. My question is regarding the shape of the crotch curve. I’m concerned that having the pivot point on the back crotch curve will change the shape and therefore the fit of the crotch. Is there a way to avoid that?


  2. How NICE of you to give us all these tips!

    I have never seen that adjustment before, and I have seen MANY adjustments for droopy fabric under the buttocks.
    I have never seen the adjustment go all the way to the side seam like yours did. If the tuck goes to nothing at the inseam, why doesn’t it go to nothing at the side seam? It seems that if you have to add the 3/4″ BACK ON at the waist, that you still have the same length at the side that you started with.

    Just wondering.

    Thanks, Joy

    1. Hi Joy, Thanks for checking in! The goal is to pin the muslin back to zero at the side seam if the front leg does not need an adjustment to the rise. The particular adjustment is taking the excess length out of the middle of the back leg, not along the side seam. That’s why I put back the 3/4″ that I took out of the side seam when I overlapped the pieces. If I had made this adjustment on muslin that someone was wearing, it would have been easier to pin a tuck that was zero at the side seam and inseam (sort of like a fish eye dart). Paper acts differently… so I had to take out an even 3/4″ across the diagonal and then put the 3/4″ back at the side seam. Does that make sense? Let me know, thanks, Jen

  3. thanks Jen!

    I can’t wait to try this. It’s like a small butt adjustment! Will it also work on the Selvedge jeans? Those are the ones I was having trouble with.

    1. Hi Kate, 🙂 The challenge when adjusting the J Jean Pattern (using selvage denim because it has straight side seams) … is the straight side seams. You can try it by making a pivot point at the side and inseam … but you have to keep the side seam straight… I think what would happen is that you wouldn’t be able to take as much out. I’ll try it too when I get a minute :)))))

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