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Quick Tip Thursday l How to Adjust the Sleeve Cap for a Forward Rotated Shoulder

Hey Everyone…. Happy Thursday!  You know how somethings just work out great?  Well, I set up to shoot this video and I did it in one take, with almost no editing (out my uhmmms) :)  I love it when that happens. Today’s Quick Tip is a companion to Episode 4 of JSDTV when I showed the difference between a “forward shoulder” pattern adjustment to get the shoulder seam centered on your shoulder and a “forward rotating shoulder” pattern adjustment where you are adjusting the pattern to accommodate a shoulder that’s rotated forward.  Phew that’s a mouthful!  Anyway, if you need to adjust the bodice for a forward rotating shoulder, you also need to adjust the sleeve cap!

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I’m also working on a test fitting for the ponte knit jeans.  My daughter Anna has graciously agreed to be my fit model for the Women’s sized pattern… and be the star of next week’s episode of JSDTV!    Anna’s going to model the fit muslin as it fits right out of the envelop… then after I’ve adjusted it to fit her.  If you’ve ever wondered what goes on during one of my jean fit workshops, here’s a peek.

I was really surprised to find out that many of the adjustments I had to make to Anna’s pattern were the same as those I would make for a non-stretch jean pattern.  The proportions and measurements are different, but the adjustments themselves are similar.  I’m going to finish sewing the fitted muslin together after I finish this post, I’m dying to see how they fit.  I will fill you guys in on Tuesday next week.  …If all goes as I hope they will, I think I may be announcing their availability too!!!

Finally, Deepika at Patternreview.com has put Fit your Tee to a T on sale for $19.99 until January 12th… If you’ve been waiting for a good sale, here you go!  I’ve you’ve purchased this pattern and you haven’t had a chance to make it up yet… Let’s go!!  I’ve moved on to designing new necklines for the Tee.  It amazes me that some of the designs look like completely different patterns.  If you’ve fit your tee pattern and want more, check out the New Tee Neckline Workshop  or  Beyond the Boat Neck on Patternreivew.com…

I think that’s enough excitement for today… Have a great weekend 🙂

 

6 thoughts on “Quick Tip Thursday l How to Adjust the Sleeve Cap for a Forward Rotated Shoulder

  1. Hi Jennifer. Thanks so much for these tutorials. After watching this one, I wondered whether you have ever tried, after cutting the horizontal line, sliding the cap forward the amount of the shoulder adjustment and then just ‘true’ the result? This is how I learnt to do the adjustment and it is certainly a much simpler way to lengthen the back and shorten the front. Plus, I think the shoulder point also needs to shift and this method accomplishes that. Kind regards, Susan

    1. Hi Susan,
      You bring up two very good points… I should have mentioned that I was showing one of a few good ways to do this adjustment. I picked this method because it kept truing up the cap minimal. I’ve also seen both adjustments combined. Shift the cap, and then do the adjustment I showed. Doing it this way creates the biggest true-up. I think the more “invasive” method would be appropriate for figures that have a really obvious rotation of the shoulder joint. The second point is that you need to walk the new cap in the armhole to shift the shoulder seam notch… Thank you for mentioning it 🙂

      1. Hi Jennifer.

        Thanks for taking the time to reply; I do have an obvious rotation of the shoulder joint, so next garment I’ll test out combining both methods to see what results! Regards Susan

  2. Hello Jennifer,
    I have a question. I have a forwardly rotated shoulder joint and I have done a version of adding to the back top and subtracting from the front for many years. I am happy to finally learn how to change the sleeve cap since I’ve never done this and always wondered why my upper sleeves never fit.
    My question is, do I need to do this adjustment when I sew knits, like in your T-Shirt pattern?
    I have signed up for your shirt class and have your pattern. Thanks for your reply, I watch all of your videos, thank you so much.
    Judith

    1. Hi Judith,
      I think knit may be a little more forgiving, making the need for it a little less noticeable… But, if you change the shape of the cap, I think it will fit better. (I admit that I do not have a lot of experience with this adjustment because I haven’t had much opportunity to work with it in classes. Let me know how it works!

      1. Thanks jennifer, I’ll let you know how it works.
        Judith

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