JSDTV Episode 4 l How to Adjust a Pattern if Your Shoulder Rotates Forward

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Hey Everyone,  Today I want to give a detailed answer to a question I received in one of my online classes (The Perfectly Fitted Shirt on Patternreview.com)  A couple of students asked questions about the Forward Shoulder Adjustment.  In the class I show how adjust a shoulder seam that is forward of the center of the shoulder. (Hence I call it “The Forward Shoulder Adjustment)…  The students pointed out that a forward rotating shoulder is also a body type.  The adjustment for this fitting challenge is the opposite of the one I showed in class, so it was confusing.  Their questions got me thinking about it…  This is why I love teaching and I love my student.  I’m always learning new things :).

I was aware of this body type and adjustment, but I never worked it out for myself… so this is the perfect opportunity! The front shoulder is easy to adjust because you just need to adjust the slope of the shoulder seam (by lowering the tip of the shoulder end).   …The back proved to be a little more challenging. It’s not just a matter of adjusting the slope of the back shoulder the opposite amount as the front.  More room along the arm hole also needs to be created to accommodate the forward rotation of the ball of the shoulder.    Because you need to add to the shoulder seam in both directions, it makes the shoulder seam longer…   An easy way maintain the length of the back shoulder seam is to use a pattern that has a shoulder dart.  That way you can transfer the excess into the dart.  …So that’s what I did!

On a separate note, I announced that I will be in LA teaching workshops in March.  First I get to spend the 11th and 12th with the LA Chapter of the ASG.  The Jean Fit Workshop is full, but there are a couple of spaces left in the Tee Fit Workshop…so if you’re local to the area and have The Tee on your list… check that out.  Then I’m off to Baron’s Sewing Center to teach The Ponte Knit Jeans Workshop on the 13th and 14th.  It’s going to  be super fun!

Anyway, let me know if you have questions about today’s Episode of JSDTV 🙂

 

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