BabyLock Ovation Serger Manual: Differential Feed (page 13)

Hey Everyone… Happy Memorial Day Weekend!!   I’m looking forward to a fun weekend at Abby’s volleyball tournament.  It’s the last one of the season that I’ll be able to attend.   Plus, I’m also planning some floating time in the pool, I’m so excited for the warmer weather :)  Which brings me to a scheduling note…because of the Holiday, I’m going to post videos on Wednesday and Friday next week.

Today I want to explain and show you how to use the Differential Feed Settings on the serger.  If you do not have an Ovations, take a second to take note of what the specific number setting are on yours… That way, you’ll be able to compare them to what I’m showing you :)

I’m not going to go over specialty techniques that you can achieve using your differential feed in this video because I want to keep it short, but don’t worry, I will be getting that information to you soon!  (Things like Lettuce Edge and Gathering fabric).

I really wanted to wear one of my tees that I made out of a funky colored wool knit mixed with a gray knit that I used for the V-Neckline and armhole bindings…   I though I looked OK when I did my “beauty check” before getting in front of the camera…   Sadly, when I started editing the video, I scared myself!  So, I’ll be up close and personal for my talking points (I cropped out some of the scariness)!  Enjoy

 

BabyLock Ovation Serger Manual: Needle Threader – Stitch Length and Width

Hey Everyone, Who knew?  The standard needle threader that comes with most sergers and sewing machines actually works!  I’ve noticed them among the accessories for other machines that I’ve purchased, but I’ve never bothered to try it.  If you have trouble getting those needles threaded, give the needle threader a try!   I also want to review stitch length and width.  These are two adjustments that you can use to tailor the look of your stitch whether it’s being used for a decorative detail or to finish the edges.

Stitch Length on the serger works exactly like stitch length works on the sewing machine when you’re using the zig-zag stitch.  Usually the numbers on the stitch length dial refer to millimeters.  On the Ovation serger there are two stitch length ranges from .75 to 4, one for standard finishing and construction seams and one for rolled hem stitches.  When you adjust the stitch length, you’re adjusting the length of the needle stitches.  This brings the looper threads closer or farther apart.  The smaller the number on the stitch length dial, the closer the looper threads are …just like creating a satin stitch on your sewing machine.  When you pass over the “-0-” from standard to rolled hem, the stitch finger is disengaged for you! (That’s why there is two identical ranges of stitch lengths… The difference is “with stitch finger” for standard serging and “without stitch finger” for rolled hem.)

Stitch Width on a serger is really means “cutting width”.  The stitch width dial on the Ovation has two sets of number that refer to the distance from the tip of the needle to the cutting blade.  The larger numbers refers to the distance from the O1 (left needle) and the smaller numbers refers to the distance from the O2 (right needle). Just like with the stitch length, the lower the number, the smaller or more narrow the cutting width.     Adjusting the width of the stitch affects two things.  In addition to affecting the width of the stitch, you can also adjust the width to accommodate the weight of your fabric.  You may need to trim a little more off  by selecting a lower number on the width dial to get heavier fabrics to lay smoothly under the looper threads.  In reverse, you may need to cut a little wider to get lightweight fabrics to fill the looper threads.

Wider stitches need to be supported by the “stitch finger”.  All sergers have a stitch finger. With some brands, you may need to insert or remove the stitch finger for narrow stitches like a rolled hem.  Other brands and models may require you to adjust the stitch finger to engage or disengage it depending on the width of your stitch.  The stitch finger on the Ovation serger adjusts automatically when you adjust the width of the stitch.  It moves closer or farther with the cutting blade as you adjust the width of the stitch.

Let me know if you have questions!  Thanks for watching.

Baby Lock Serger Manual: How to Thread the Ovation

Hey Everyone… Good News, my husband assured me that we have excellent “Band Width” … So I can upload  “Threading Preparation” on my computer, and “How to Thread the Ovation” on his laptop!   I’m really excited that all of the “preliminary” videos will be completed today.   I focused on the Ovation to get to the point where the machine was threaded.  …On Tuesday, I’ll still be using the Ovation, but most of the information will be useful to everyone who owns a serger.

I’ve also made great progress on the new serger class I’m working on for Patternreivew.com.  My approach in planning this class is a little different.   I’ve been making tees, ponte knit jeans and skirts, experimenting with different stitches, threads and techniques.  I’m excited about how this class is shaping up!   Check out the “behind the scenes” on my instagram.

There are two videos today… First I want to review page 19 of the manual…How to put a variety of different kinds of thread on the spool stand.  You may need to use the cone holder, spool caps with/without foam or thread nets to help the thread spool off properly.

The second video shows how easy it is to thread the Baby Lock Ovation using the air feeding system.  I also show how to use the lint brush/needle inserting tool…  Hope you like them…. Questions? Please let me know!!

Baby Lock Ovation Serger Manual: Accessories – Needles and Threads – Set Up

Hey Everyone,  Today’s Episode of the Baby Lock Ovation Serger Manual covers everything you need to know before you thread the machine.  Instead of one longer video, I’ve uploaded three separate videos.  That way, you can watch what you’re interested in, and skip what you’re not!   I’m excited to rev up the engine and show you all the things that a serger can do, but we have to get through all the preliminary stuff first.    So, check out today’s videos and let me know if you have questions!

 

Baby Lock Ovation Serger Manual: Overview of the Ovation (Page 5)

Hey Everyone… It’s 7:46 pm and I’m still waiting for the first episode of this new series of videos to finish uploading.  I’ve been having trouble with the internet…  I started the upload at 10:00 am, and then there was a couple hours where it hung out at 18% uploaded with 269 minutes to go…  We’re now at 86% completed with under an hour to go… Hopeful that I can have this up before I go to bed!!

Today’s Episode of the Baby Lock Ovation Serger Manual is an overview of the serger.  I’ve sprinkled in some tips that will be useful to you if you’re new to using a serger, no matter which brand of serger you own!   I hope you enjoy.

 

Prom Gown Sew Along l How to do a Light Weight Rolled Hem

Hey Everyone,   …This is the finale of the Prom Gown Sew Along :)   How to do an easy, light weight rolled hem.   I decided on this technique to finish the skirt because I didn’t have any length for a seam allowance. (Not even a narrow double sewn hem).  Happily, it was really fast and easy.  Check out today’s episode for all the details on that!  …If you do not own a serger, or you would like to sew a double hem, that’s also a great option.  Click the link for a video tutorial showing how to do that….(it’s a shirt hem, but the principle is the same!).

Of anyone has questions, or still needs help with their prom gown… or other special occasion dress, please let me know :)

Thursday we are moving on to the Baby Lock Ovation Serger Manual series of video tutorials.   If you do not own a Baby Lock, please join me anyway.  Much of the information, tips, techniques and other info is pretty useful no matter which brand of serger you own!

 

Prom Gown Sew Along l How to Insert a Heavy Duty Invisible Zipper

HeavyDutyZipperHey Everyone,   Here it is… How to Insert a Heavy Duty Invisible Zipper!  I’ve had trouble in the past with invisible zippers breaking or fraying at the intersection of the waistline seam.  Then I discovered that there are heavy and extra heavy weight zippers!   The link will take you to cleaner supply where I get them.  They are YKK Nylon Invisible Zippers.  The Heavy Weight Zipper is #3 and the Extra Heavy Weight Zipper is #5.   And, Happy Day, both of these zippers are available in white and a variety of other colors too!

In this Episode of the Prom Gown Sew Along, I’m going to show you how to use standard zipper feet to put in the invisible zipper.  If you would like to use the Green YKK Invisible Zipper Foot that I show in the video, here’s link to that.  This website also has the slim left and right side standard zipper feet.

Check out all the details in this Episode of the Prom Gown Sew Along… And, if you would like to know what the topic of the next video series will be… be sure to watch to the end!  If you have questions, please let me know!  Have a nice weekend!

 

Prom Gown Sew Along l How to Support the Weight of the Dress

Hey Everyone,  Today is get more support Tuesday in the Prom Gown Sew Along.  My primary objective when I started making this dress was to make it so it did not feel like it was going to slide down when Abby was dancing the night away.    I started with a well boned strapless foundation.  The boning primarily supports the shape of the  dress… but it doesn’t support the weight of the dress vs. gravity.  Then we went shopping for a good strapless long-line bra.  Separately, this was really supportive to Abby’s shape, but it did not support the weight of the dress either.   (Basically, the dress can still slide down, even though Abby had a “proper foundation”.

One way to take the weight off the top of the bodice is to secure the waist of the dress around the body.  You can do this by sewing in a waist stay.  This is a piece of stable ribbon that is attached to the strapless foundation at the waist (the most narrow position of the body).  It holds the dress securely at the waistline. Here’s a good tutorial from Lauramaedesigns.com

Because I had a wonderful long line bra to work with, I decided to use that instead :)  Check out today’s Episode of the Prom Gown Sew Along for all the details.

Prom Gown Sew Along l Easy Lace Applique

Hey Everyone!  My plan was to have this up right after breakfast… but the upload time on the YouTube was ridiculous… Over 263 minutes of upload time :(  …Even as I type this at 4:22 pm, the video is still “processing” with 7 minutes to go.

Today I want to show you how I appliqued the lace motifs onto the lace overlay.   Before getting started with this technique, I wanted to back up and talk about supporting the lace with a silk organza underling. Between you and me, I didn’t take the time to do that when I was making Abby’s dress because I was only adding the 5 tear drop shaped lace motifs to the bodice.  If I had decided to get a little more detailed with the applique, adding more elements, I think the tulle (that was the foundation of the beaded lace) would have needed some support.  Silk organza is an excellent underlying for this purpose because it’s very sheer and super strong.    If you’re working on a dress that has a lot of applique work, I recommend underlining the lace overlay.

If you have any questions about creating lace appliques, creating the overall lace design, or anything else… please let me know!

 

Prom Gown Sew Along l Tour of the Dress

aBBY

…After Abby wore it to the prom :)  Hey Everyone.   So excited to show you the dress and how it held up during all that dancing.    Today I’m going to take you on a tour inside and out.  …What worked well and what didn’t work so well.    Then I’ll give you the schedule of upcoming tutorials to finish this sew along up.  I decided that I would break them up into single techniques instead of uploading everything into one long video.

Here’s a full length photo of Abby and her best friend before she left for the Prom.

TouroftheDress1In the end, I felt so happy as I watched her get ready, take photos and climb into the party bus that took her and 29 of her closest friends to the prom.  And, I’m also so happy that I’ve been able to share the process with you!   If you have questions that I did not answer, please feel free to post a comment and I can add your question into the mix.